Skills Development

WEEK 1 - SHOT TYPES

This task was to demonstrate that we understood the different Shot Types and their effects. This is relevant because in film and TV, the use of different shot types allows for different meanings. For example, a close-up shot could imply that the scene is intense.

This shot type is an Establishing Shot. This allows the viewer to understand where the scene is set and understand the situation. An establishing shot mostly focusses on the background setting, however, can include characters. An establishing shot might be used at the beginning of a Film to set the scene and show the viewer where the film is taking place.

This is an establishing shot from a film. Both this shot and my establishing shot have similarities in the fact that they both display characters, whilst also showing the background.

In the future, if I were to take another establishing shot, I could take it from the outside of a building to further enhance where the scene is set.

This shot type is a Long Shot. A long shot portrays the characters whole body, as well as showing the background. This shot could be used to present the character in a particular setting. A Long Shot may be used at the beginning of a scene to further establish the setting and characters.

This Shot is a Long Shot from a film. It is clear that in both shots the entire bodies are visible but also show the backdrop. I think we were successful in capturing the Long Shot.

This shot is a Medium Long Shot. This shot type could be used to show the upper part of the character, whilst still allowing the viewer to see most of their body. Furthermore, it encourages the viewer to begin to focus on the characters facial and body expressions.

This is a Medium Long Shot from a film. It clearly shows that the camera shot cuts off at the actor’s knees, which can also be referred to as a Cowboy Shot.

This shot type is a Medium Shot. This shot type further focusses on the top half of the characters body, by cutting off at the waist. This shot encourages the viewer to focus mainly on the character, however, the background is still clearly visible so that they are also aware of where the character is.

This is a Medium Shot from a film. In both this shot and my shot, it is clear that the shot cuts off at the waist, allowing the viewer to focus more on the character than the background. It also allows them to see if the character is holding anything in their hands.

This shot type is a medium close up. Although the background is still visible in this shot, the character is the main focus – particularly their facial expressions. This shot could be used to intensify the scene, allowing the viewer to get closer to the character. This shot type could therefore be used in an intense moment.

This shot is a Medium Close Up. It invites the viewer closer to the character, allowing them to access their thoughts and feelings. In the future, I could take the shot slightly closer to the actor to enhance the effect that this shot type can have.

This shot type is a Close Up. This shot focusses primarily on the subject. However, the background is still visible to the viewer, yet not the main subject. This shot type could be used to clearly portray an emotion. For example, if a character was smiling, a close up shot would highlight strongly how they are feeling.

This is a Close Up Shot from a film. It is useful when allowing the scene to intensify and show emotion. For example, in this shot, it is clear that the character is feeling fear and shock.

This shot type is an extreme close up. This shot type focusses closely on a particular part of the subject. It also, removes the background so that the viewer focusses solely on the subject being shown. This shot is useful to understand the characters inner feelings. For example, an extreme close up of the eye could highlight fear.

This is an extreme Close Up Shot from a film. It further amplifies the inner emotions of the character. When taking this shot in the future, I would move the camera even closer to the subject to ensure that the emotion that I am trying to portray is felt.

This shot type is a High Angle Shot. This shot is created when the camera is above the subject, looking down on them. This can be used to make the subject appear small and inferior. This shot type can allow the viewer to see the character and the background.

This is a High Angle Shot from a film. It shows the inferiority of the characters. In the future, I would adjust the angle even higher depending on what emotion I was trying to convey. By moving the angle of the camera higher, it would make the subject appear even smaller.

This shot type is a Low Angle Shot. This shot type is created with the camera positioned below the subject and looking up at them. This allows the subject to appear larger and superior. This shot type could be used during a powerful scene to display the subject’s strength.

This is a Low Angle Shot from a film. This shot has been used to show the superiority of the characters. This is a good angle to use as it is clear the characters are important members of society. In order to convey the extent of their superiority, I would adjust the camera angle further.

This shot type is a Dutch Angle Shot. It is created by the tilting of the camera against the subject. It can be used to make the subject appear disorientated and unaware of their surroundings. This could be used to show the dizziness and confusion that a character is feeling in a particular moment. Furthermore, the distance between the subject and the camera can further highlight this idea.

This is a Dutch Angle from a film. It shows that the character is in a state of confusion and disorientation. To further amplify this, the camera could be tilted even more to show exactly how disorientating the situation is.

FRAMING AND COMPOSITION - TASK 1

In this image, multiple methods have been used to draw the viewers eye to selected parts of the photo. For example, by using contrast, the eye is drawn to the symmetrical leading lines, which encourage the viewer to look through the building at the sunset. The contrast between light and dark enhance where the eye is drawn further. Firstly, the eye is drawn to the midground, where the building is positioned. This is due to size and focus. For example, it is visible that there are people both in the foreground and background, however, the most intriguing part of the image is the building, therefore, it is the subject most in focus. To ensure that the focus is on the building, the people and mountains around it have been blurred. This conveys their lack of importance in the image and encourages the viewer to look mainly at the building. Therefore, the depth of field is in the midground. Because of how the image has been composed, it is effective in focussing the main subject.

In this image, multiple methods have been used to draw the viewers eye to a particular part of the photo. For example, this photograph uses Natural Framing, which encompasses the image focus (the boat) in its own surroundings (the trees). Even though the trees at the foreground of the image are not focussed, it helps to convey the setting of the photo and draw the viewer to the boat upon first looking at the image. Furthermore, the leading lines at the bases of the tree’s leaves allow for the focus to be drawn towards the boat. To imply further that the boat and people are the main subjects, the rule of three is used. It places the boat directly in the middle of the ‘grid’, clearly showing that the image is based around that. Finally, contrast is used to also draw attention to the boat. It is clear that the water is overshadowed, and therefore darker at either side of the image. However, down the centre of the image, where the boat is positioned, the water is much lighter, drawing the eye to that part of the image.

In this image, multiple methods have been used to draw the viewers eye to a particular part of the photo. Upon first viewing this photograph, the main focus is the Lamppost. For example, this image uses the composition method, Leading Lines. The bold, black post leads clearly to the light inside the lamppost. The black post and bright light also allow the image to have contrast. Also, the lines of the railings going down the stairs entice the viewer into the photograph and encourages them to look further into its depth. The brightness of the lamppost light allows the viewer to concentrate more on that than the background. However, Reflections, another composition method, is used when the lights in the distance are reflected in the water.

180 degree rule

This week, our task was to understand the 180 Degree Rule, a Shot Reverse Shot, 30 Degree Rule, Over the Shoulder Shot and Match on Action. We further demonstrated that we understood these techniques by using them in our practical work.

180 Degree Rule

The 180 Degree Rule is a cinematic term involving the distance between two actors within a frame. It can involve an invisible 180 Degree line passing through the actors to indicate what to include in the shot. Once the line is mapped out, the shot can be filmed within the area, but the camera shot should not pass over the line.

Shot Reverse Shot

The 180 Degree Rule can be broken when the camera passes over the invisible line and films in the opposite area. This is called a Reverse Shot and can be most commonly shown in an ‘Over the Shoulder’ (OTS) shot. By doing this, it can make the scene feel disorientating through the flip of camera angles between two characters. This shot can also be filmed with only one character who is having a conversation with themselves. This could be shot through a mirror to portray their contrasting personality.

30 Degree Rule

The 30 Degree Rule is a method used when cameras that are shooting the same subject are at least 30 degrees distance away from one another. This method is used so that the shots do not appear jumpy and are recognisably different from the other shots. Furthermore, the 30 degree rule helps the scene to flow better and look more natural.

Over The Shoulder Shot

An Over The Shoulder Shot (OTS) is when the camera is placed over the ‘off screen’ characters shoulder. This is used to portray to the viewer that there is someone else in the scene, but their focus is directed at the character in focus in that scene. This scene is useful to use when two or more characters are having a conversation. If there is a camera positioned over both characters shoulders, this could also act as a Shot Reverse Shot.

Match On Action

A Match On Action technique allows a scene to have multiple shots of the same subject from different angles. This method allows the scene to feel uninterrupted and that the scene flows whilst using different angles. Match On Action is a continuity technique that matches the action happening in the previous shots.

To demonstrate these techniques, in a small group, we shot a short scene, using each of the methods. Before shooting the scene, I created a storyboard that mapped out the angles and shots we needed to include. I have included this storyboard below.

I have also created a photographic storyboard below of still images from the scene that we shot using the techniques.

1. Our opening, establishing shot included a Long Shot of the subject. We shot this scene by using the rule of thirds, deliberately placing the subject in the middle of the screen to highlight the main focus to the viewer.

2. In our second shot we used an Over the Shoulder (OTS) shot when the subject sat down at the table. Although we have not seen the other character yet, the viewer is aware that they are there through the use of this shot.

3. In our third shot, we used another OTS shot, however, we also used a Shot Reverse Shot. This is clear because the camera has now flipped to the other side of the table, positioned over the other characters shoulder, making the previously unknown character the main subject in this shot.

4. In the fourth shot, we further used the Over the Shoulder and Shot Reverse shot methods to ensure that our scene was clear and orientating for the viewer.

5. In the fifth shot, we used two more methods – The Rule of Thirds and 180 Degree Rule. By using the Rule of Thirds, both characters are positioned to the left and right of the screen, creating a balanced feel to the scene. We were also able to demonstrate the 180 Degree Rule with a clear line between the camera and the action happening in front of the camera. This allowed the scene to have a clearly orientated end.

During this task, I think that we were able to successfully demonstrate the new techniques that we learnt. In the future, I would like to further explore the 30 Degree Rule and include some scenes where Match on Action can be used. Through this exercise, I learnt the different techniques that are used when filming conversation scenes and the meanings and emotions that they can convey. In the future, I will apply this work when filming conversation scenes and positioning both the actors and the cameras in the correct places when filming a scene.

FRAMING AND COMPOSITION - TASK 2

For this task, I took a selection of images using the different Framing and Composition methods. The methods that I explored were, Leading Lines, The Rule of Thirds, Contrast, Symmetry and Depth.

Leading Lines

In this image, I was able to demonstrate the composition method, Leading Lines. It is clear that the metal bars point directly to a specific point of the image. It allows the viewer to be drawn in and encourages them to follow the lines around the image. I think I have been successful in capturing the leading lines method in this image. When reviewing this image, I feel that it conveys a sense of movement as the viewers eyes follow the bars around the image.

The Rule of Thirds

In this image, I am able to demonstrate the composition method, The Rule of Thirds. I used the grid on the camera screen to place the subject directly in the middle of the photograph. By doing this, it allows the viewer to focus primarily on the main subject. However, in the future, I could use the camera grid to place the subject either side of the middle section. When reviewing this image, it is clear what the main focus is as the subject is standing in the centre of the photograph, through the use of The Rule of Thirds.

Contrast

In this image, I am able to demonstrate the composition method, Contrast. I have identified the difference in brightness and darkness of the sun on the building, in contrast to the shadow that the building casts. To further broaden my knowledge of contrast in the future, I could look for differences in other subjects, such as, Textures.

Symmetry

In this image, I was able to demonstrate the composition method, Symmetry. It shows two subjects exactly the same as each other. However, in the future, I would be keen to find Symmetry in natural settings and buildings. By doing this, as well as a form of Symmetry it could also act as another composition method – Patterns. When reviewing this image, it feels as though the Symmetry used could possibly metaphorically represent other subjects that are not present in the image. This is an idea which I would like to explore further when using Symmetry.

Depth

In this image, I have been able to demonstrate the composition method, Depth. Through the use of the balloons in the foreground of the image, and the subject in the midground of the image and the other items in the background of the image, this image has multiple layers of Depth. Furthermore, this image could also portray contrast, with the silhouetted figure standing in the suns light. When reviewing this image, I feel it gives a sense of mixed emotions through the array of colours, ranging from bright blue in the foreground, to black in the midground.

During this task, I think we were able to successfully demonstrate the multiple composition and framing methods. In the future, I would like to particularly explore The Rule of Thirds and Symmetry further.

week 4 - camera settings

For this week’s tasks, we developed our knowledge of camera settings further. We particularly looked at Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO, and Exposure.

The Shutter Speed setting on a camera allows the shutters inside the camera to open and close at a chosen speed. If the Shutter Speed is open for 30 seconds, the camera will take that long to process the image, often leaving it very overexposed or blurry. However, if the shutter is open for 1/1000, the camera will capture the image quickly and clearly, yet with less light. To capture the perfect image, it is important to ensure that multiple settings on the camera, such as, Shutter Speed, Exposure and Aperture and balanced. The choice of Shutter Speed depends on the amount of light needed and the speed of the subject you are capturing. The camera setting for Shutter Speed is TV.

Aperture refers to the lenses diaphragm opening inside of a photographic lens. The size of the diaphragm opening depends on how much light is needed to balance the photograph alongside the shutter speed and ISO. When light passes through a lens, it has to pass through an opening, which is called Aperture. When the hole is wide, it allows more light to flood through, however, when the hole is small, it lets in less light. Furthermore, when the hole is wide, it allows for the entire image to be in focus, including the foreground, midground and background, making it a deep Depth of Field. However, when the hole is small, the camera has a selected focus on one subject, making the background blurred, meaning it would have a shallow depth of field. When the F stop, which refers to the lens focal length, is higher, the darker the image will appear. On the other hand, when the F stop is lower, the image will appear lighter. Both lighting aspects and Depth of Field can determine the choice of Aperture. The camera setting for Aperture Priority is AV.

Exposure is the amount of light collected by a camera. It is important to adjust the exposure in the camera settings to ensure that the brightness is allowing for a good exposure, and not making the image underexposed or overexposed. As previously mentioned, it is important to match your exposure settings to some of the other camera settings, such as, Shutter Speed and Aperture, so that the image has a balanced look. Exposure can also be determined by the surroundings of the image. If the photograph or film is being captured in a naturally dark area, the exposure would need to be high to allow the subject to appear visible. However, if the photograph or film is being captured in a naturally bright area, the exposure may need to be lowered so that it does not appear overexposed.

ISO in camera settings refers to the camera’s sensitivity to light. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the camera sensor becomes, and the brighter the photo or film appears. The lower the ISO, the less sensitive the camera becomes, and the darker the photo or film appears. A common high ISO setting could be 3200 or 6400. A low ISO setting could be 100 of 200. If the camera mode is set to Auto Focus and the ISO is on Auto, the camera will use the correct ISO needed for that setting.

Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO must all be used together to ensure that the light in an image is balanced. The Speed of the Shutter can either halve or double in speed, depending on the motion of the subject being captured. However, this can also affect the light being let in. When the shutter speed is increased, the image is captured faster, therefore the less light is let in. Due to this, the Aperture must be increased to allow for the hole to open wider, exposing the camera to more light. Furthermore, if the shutter speed is halved, the aperture must be doubled, so that both the shutter speed and aperture are balanced. This also goes for the ISO Settings - depending on the shutter speed and aperture, the ISO will either need to be doubled or halved.

Shutter Speed Motion Blur

Camera Settings: TV 0”4.

This image was taken on the TV (Shutter Speed) setting. It clearly captures the movement in the image through motion blur yet allowing the background to be in focus. I am pleased with the result of this image, however, in the future, I would like to demonstrate multiple subjects using motion blur in the image.

Shutter Speed No Blur

Camera Settings: TV 1/320

This image was taken on the TV (Shutter Speed) setting. It shows that there is movement in the image yet does not have blur. I think I successfully captured the aim in this image as it was captured in the TV Setting and does not display blur.

Aperture Deep Depth of Field

Camera Settings: AV 1/6 F36

The aim of this image was to capture a deep depth of field, which means the entire shot is in focus. In order to do this, I ensured that the settings were on AV to allow for a high aperture, meaning the hole was wide, capturing the entire image.

Aperture Shallow Depth of Field

Camera Settings: AV 1/80 F5.6

The aim for this image was to capture a shallow depth of field, which means only a selected part of the image is in focus. In order to do this, I ensured that the settings were on AV to allow me to set a low Aperture, meaning the hole was small, focusing on a particular part of the image.

Low ISO

Camera Settings: ISO 100 F9.0

For this image, I used a low ISO at 100, in hopes that the image would appear darker. However, as it is clear to see, the image is still quite bright. To achieve the image which I wanted, I needed to pay attention to some of the other settings, particularly the Aperture as it is clear the image is not balanced in that sense.

High ISO

Camera Settings: ISO 3200 F22

For this image, I used a high ISO at 3200 in hope that the image would appear brighter, which it does. However, the image also has a slight blur due to the Aperture and Shutter Speed that I used. In the future, to prevent this from happening, I would need to adjust these other settings to ensure that the image is balanced.

By completing the tasks this week, I now feel more comfortable with identify the definitions and uses behind the different camera settings, Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO, and Exposure. I also feel comfortable being able to demonstrate these settings through my images and locating the different settings on a camera. In the future, I need to work on balancing the settings and using them together to ensure I capture a perfect image. I now understand that some of these settings go hand in hand with each other. Finally, I will apply this knowledge in the future when experimenting with different camera settings through photography and film.